Sunday, April 18, 2010

the good, the bad

missed the formation at tubaniso, apparently it was a full house. heard otherwise. my ladies were pretty disappointed. lack of communication is frequent and frustrating, but I guess when in africa… not getting project money is also frustrating, especially with the approaching rains. both volunteers and administrators could go on and on about unprofessionalism and disappointment with each other, but the fact remains that PC could run faster, better, and be a more legitimate entity all around. haha government organizations… I’ve heard lots of ideas on how to fix us. someone should just fucking do it.

left kita with a machinist to repair the grinder in town. he seemed like a cool dude at first, but ended up being a fucking asshole. he knew his shit but wouldn’t shut up. throwing accusations around, inflating labor costs, hasslin women, bossin the kids around. he called my homologue a bad person and wouldn’t quit raggin on my village. chests started bumpin and fingers were waving. but my people knew what was up, we helped each other fend this fucker off and got a pretty good price on the whole deal. after pushing his traditional meds on elders and scaring people with his fortune telling we ran his fat ass out of town. something I’ve learned here is that if someone is good at what they do then they don’t advertise… people come to you. just like I came to him to fix the machine. he should’ve stuck to shutting his mouth and fixing the machine, since he was certainly good at that, instead of all that other bullshit that’s gonna get his rep bruised.

his bad vibes carried over to the next day with the death of the chief’s first wife. it’s a bummer because she was head of the women’s association so recently I’ve been collaborating with her frequently. her body came from kita that night and everyone freaked. wailing and flailing arms and writhing on the floor. then the jeli dude came and coached all the women to pound grain all night for the coming procession. these ladies were beating like mad with tears pouring out their eyes and snot running down their nose. the dude just kept yelling.

she’s the closest person I remember dying. a schoolmate passed in middle school but I don’t remember the funeral or anything, and her mom didn’t like me much. my great-grandfather passed when I was a freshman in college, but I only remember the smell of stink bait from catfishing on the mississippi and his wife’s rhubarb pie. and I didn’t go to the funeral.

seeing Numa’s sons cry was pretty emotional. grown men with big booming voices and broad shoulders. but the sorrow didn’t last and the procession was long. after the burial was three days of cooking and socializing, drinking tea and eating meat. they get over it quick here. guess you have to when it happens so much. all in all the whole thing was a blast, meeting extended families and running errands. after a couple of good weeks at site I was out for another break in manantali.

stopped in kita for a couple of nights. played my first games of beirut since being in country. climbed mt. kita under slight showers. then off to the river. again, you know how that goes. and again, highlights: hippoes getting a little too close, canoeing on the lake, rock jumping/island hopping, vice marathons, more pork and lovin under the tall manantali trees. paid for it though, got boils on my butt. long public transportation is hell and biking is even worse.

went through bamako before going back to site for a little work and play. walked downtown streets at night, as fun as any other downtown night-walking except maybe dirtier. I found a dried up fountain with crocodile statues surrounding the centerpiece. would've been a homeless hangout back in the states for sure. I brushed my teeth with nalgene water and smoked some cigs. listened to the call for prayer. hopped into a taxi for the US embassy and marine happy hour. those dudes love PC kids hah. back on the big green lawn and with the green bottle jameson. 1000 cfa/drink. a couple doubles and that shawarma tastes pretty damn good.

found a nice place to stay and woke up early to go to kita.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

night prowling

tossin hang-ups out the window

another sweet stay in manantali. took off from site with mr. photojournalist after dugutiki dance party, yaala yaala-ing and trying to village myth bust. we took a midnight trip to the haunted watering hole about 5 km deep into the bush. no one would go with us, my host mother forbade me until I convinced her that we know how to kill the jine because we killed all the jine in america (I've mentioned the jine before, but the latest describes them as tree-tall apparitions that play with each other until bothered, at which point they manifest your worst fears). we're white, we know how to do it. so we got within a couple hundred yards before we heard sounds of giant rocks splitting. not just tossin gravel or kickin pebbles but big busting and cracking like something was doin' work. we stood around with ears and eyes open and heard the rocks again, coming directly from our wanted destination.

I was already as scared as I was gonna get, my brain was melted and I wasn't really operating on any kind of survival skills. we didn't even have a machete. I was ready to creep onward until we heard labored walking through the bush, about 50 yards away. it wasn't like the animals that rustle around and run off when they hear you walking around. this was walking towards us real low and grueling. we hid behind some bushes but it kept coming so we were ready to bounce. we walked back hastily and were constantly checking our backs, we were on a pretty jagged edge. when we got back to village a cekoroba stopped by and asked us what was up. we gave him the short story and he just smiled and said yeah, that's what happens. not surprised.

going back soon, packin.

we celebrated passover in manantali. a few of the in-country jews put together a bomb meal with the best variety I've had in mali. we makeshifted a ceremony which was cool, something new. seems like they're really into symbolism and the story behind the story. plus they like to dance and drink and eat. it was a fitting open to another chill trip to the river. if you read this you know how manantali goes. highlights: infused mango cobbler, the new toubab bar with ping pong darts and a pool, floating a little too far down river (we've yet to scope out the croc and hippo situation round the bend) and spicy fish tacos worthy of being sold stateside. night dips and stumbling upon "the others".

back in kita now, site tomorrow. going to bamako next week with a couple ladies selected by our women's association to attend the shea formation at PC's training center. we just had a pretty promising meeting on everything from GAD opportunities to the possibility of increasing shea production once we fix our grinder. they seem pretty stoked, the community garden project is just around the corner and we just settled on work schedules and plot divisions. local politics.

back to tubaniso ahhhh...